A guide for homeowners doing renovations.

Specifically - Hiring Contractors, How to Save Money and Disaster Prevention.


Big projects have big risks.  Think you can project manage your project by yourself?  Think again.  While you might think you can take on this task, it's true you can, but just how well do you think you can project manage and do you think you'll actually save money?

The answer is...no.  In fact, I'm so sure you will lose money that I'm afraid that we'll both lose money.  A good contractor will save you more money than you spend or at least break even.  It's pretty arrogant to think you can do someone's job better than they can.

Here's why:

  • What do you know about contingencies? How can you tell how much your contingency should be?
  • What do you look for in a plumber? An electrician? A carpenter?
  • How can you tell if something is taking too long?
  • How long do you think YOUR project will take?
  • Are you trained, educated and experienced in construction?  Can you tell if we need engineering or a crane?
  • Think you can improvise on a budget? 
  • Do you know what can be done in a practical sense?
  • Can you tell if you are being "smart quoted"?
  • Do you know what is considered sloppy?
I hate to break it to you, but if you think you can project manage yourself, you can, but brace yourself for a ton of stress.

I remember searching for a home to buy with my wife.  We booked a viewing and it was for an older house we heard had been fixed up. 

When we got there, we immediately realized that the renos were DIY.  The owner wanted to DIY for cheap and charge top dollar for their renovations but to us, we could tell the work was unprofessional and were immediately turned off since in our minds, the price wasn't even in the ballpark.  The homeowner had clearly put their heart and sould into the reno I'm sure, but since so much was re-done, we knew if we wanted these deficiencies gone, we'd have to redo everything the homeowner had done.  Heartbreaking for the seller and for us, an easy deal-breaker with sympathy for the homeowner.

Reality is you will pay more, get an inferior product, it will take longer AND you'll be LESS happy than if you made the right choice spending your time vetting and selecting a competent, experienced & skilled contractor.  And your house will be worth MORE.

Honestly, I tend now to either decline jobs that homeowners choose to project manage themselves or I charge an hourly rate because things will be so inefficient that I'll be working for pennies.  I'll also be in fear of not getting paid or paid on time.  Either way, I tend to lose.  Either I protect myself and the homeowner pays needlessly more for hard lessons and is unhappy OR we both lose money and are both unhappy.

That's a terrible outcome!
Thanks for reading!

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If you're like every homeowner, you probably think that you need to get 3 quotes and decide from there.
I'm here to tell you that you're going to have a really hard time deciding accurately between all the quotes.  They're NEVER apples to apples.   In fact, it's more like comparing apples to grapes to watermelons.

Defining some terms

  • Quotes are NOT Estimates.  Know the difference and we've explained them here.
  • Allowances:  Is a sum of money or "budget" included with a bid to allow for the purchase of materials, fixtures or some other aspect that may be uncertain at the point in time of the bid submission.  Generally, in a perfect world, all allowances across all quotes should be the same but they never are.
  • Quotes can be define as a "fixed" amount, therefore you should know the context.  Contexts can be from "lump sum", "cost by unit of measure -( ie: hourly rate or cost per sq.ft.)" and "fixed cost of labour" AKA "Quote on Labour".
  • Draw Schedule:  Is an schedule of payments you issues to your contractor, usually at a stage of completion or after a certain amount of time.  They are sometimes regular or irregular time frames.
  • Holdbacks: Withholding amount that you keep until the job is completed.  This is usually 10% of the job.
  • Deposit: Can range in terms of the size of the job.  This in some cases may be non-refundable if it's towards securing a schedule.  Deposits are a whole topic I will write an article on eventually.

Steps towards deciding on a quote

  1. Your first step for getting quotes is to identify the scope for your contractors to bid on.  The only best way for you to accomplish this is getting a set of plans for each contractor to quote on.
  2. The next step is to ensure that the project schedule is roughly the same across each quote.  What I mean by this is it needs to be able to be evaluated so that you can tell if you are paying a premium on the speed or a discount because it may take longer for example.  Example: 1 worker taking 4 weeks vs 4 workers taking 1 week.  Even though these add up to the same, they influence contractors risk assessment and scheduling difficulties.  The later scenario might be padded for overtime for example which could be unfair to you if your schedule is flexible.
  3. Now you need to do a little bit of homework.  Actually a lot.  You need to read this article on getting "smart quoted".   Ten minutes of reading might save you thousands of dollars.  
  4. Convert each quote to not include the "allowances".   You'll have to subtract the allowance amounts off of each.  Also, if you notice a big discrepancy on the allowance amounts then you might be getting "smart" quoted.  It might be a good idea to try and get a "budget" for allowances.
  5. The next few things you'll need to do are all things that you weigh according to what you're after.  Warranty.  Safety.  "The Basics".  Ideally, each quote should include the basics and you can use "finding a contractor you can trust" as another resource or way to help you make a final decision.
By the time you've gone through those 5 steps, you should have a pretty good idea of which contractor to choose from.  

The important thing to remember is try and put the quotes in the same terms, then see where the extra value is - or lack thereof!

I hope that helps you!




25 Foot Beam Vaulted Ceiling Convert
You've discovered that wall you want removed is load-bearing.  At least we're going to assume that through consulting various sources you think that it is.

There's only one professional that is now allowed(at least in my area) to provide a solution for doing this despite general contractors, some carpenters and some knowledgeable DIYers that can tell if a wall is load-bearing and maybe offer a good way of safely removing the walls and replacing them with some other structural means.

That professional is a structural engineer.

They cost a lot and it's by the hour.  It's going to depend on  too many variables to get a rough estimate but $1200 or more is likely.  I've had some clients though that chose to hire me and I saved them a ton of money because I know stuff that I can tell a drafter and save on engineering costs in multiple ways.  Not only that, after they've worked with me, they end up changing their minds and getting something more that they want and better value on occasion.

Now, since it's just one wall you might want to hire that engineer and then get your pricing for the execution part later.  That's just a time saver but really, on bigger jobs or if you are doing lots of work then really, you should just call a general renovations contractor and they can tell you what is practical and start budgeting!

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You're about to start your renovation but you have no idea about the cost. So what do most people do?  It's the worst way people get reno cost information.
*Hint*:  They might google it(and that's not always terrible but inconsistent) but aside from that?

As a contractor, it's probably one of the most frustrating problems in the industry because cost is usually priority #1.

I'm am sometimes already at a disadvantage because my potential clients have sought out finding the ballpark cost and that gives them false expectations.

Likely, saved budgets are on the edge of this false information.  When time comes to start the job, there's no contingency or room in the budget for doing things properly or getting that extra feature that really makes you happy.

Luckily I've found ways to get past that problem but 90% of other contractors I believe still follow bad practices and give low-balled information that's used as bait.


Everything is in theory until plans are drawn up.  In a perfect world WE KNOW, there's no red ink from your city's building department.

So the worst way to get information on "how much does a renovation cost" is to: "ask for an estimate".

So they get estimates.  And wrong ones.  Let me ask you this.

Aside from the main differences between quotes and estimates, which one do you think has more reliable information?

It's simple, a contractor is going to do a way better job of quoting because it's on them if it's wrong.  I "sweat bullets" sometimes when I give a quote - I certainly lose sleep on occasion.  I don't quote on imaginary blueprints either because the risk is on me and if I mitigate that risk, it just means you're going to be unhappy paying the extra costs.  And since I don't play at unethical "Smart Quoting" games, I sometimes lose jobs because low-balled estimates are used to bait homeowners.


So the best way to get information on your renovation cost, is to, and by far:

Develop a budget.

One thing I've learned over the years, is that I can strategically play "the game" very well but I choose not to and to operate differently and ethically.


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This is a giant money saver if I ever heard one.  So you might have ideas and a budget for your renovation - now what?  There's so much bad information out there it's no wonder there's a problem with the industry.

If it's a big job involving lots of trades, then option "A" is by far your best answer.
If it's a deck for example, a designer is your next best option.


Multi-Trades Involved Or Large Size/Scope

Hire a General Renovation Contractor first, who works with a Designer(BTW, Not an Architect or Engineer). 

Option: "B" (Not as good)

Not as good: find a designer (or worse yet on the wallet: an architect, engineer), get drawings, then find a contractor who will agree to follow them


  1. Research contract types:  "Fixed Price",  "Unit Price" & "Cost Plus" for example and understand which one you should use.
  2. Research General Contractors in your area for "The Basics" and read "How To Find A Contractor You Can Trust"
  3. Get an idea of how much designers typically cost - but don't hire them unless you're doing Option 2 above.  It's sometimes best to let your contractor pick the designer so you have an option to hire one that has one "in house" 


  1. Don't get an estimate period - it's just a good way to have false information.  
  2. Don't waste/frustrate contractors with back and forths with estimates or quotes when they don't have the job or plans.
  3. Don't get quotes UNLESS the job is a NOT multi-trade and you're hiring for say doing a deck structure.

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Literally whoever you hire, should have these basic requirements.  I mean, it's no wonder sometimes people get burned because this sort of criteria or lack thereof is a flag and, no offense, but if you did your homework, your chances of having a blown up project starts to go down.

"The Basics" Criteria

  • Insured
  • Bonded (Only commercial or bigger jobs like general contracting a home)
  • Writes a clear contract
  • Writes a clear pricing agreement
  • Asks for a reasonable deposit
  • Has a verifiable licence.  Red-Seal.  Don't over weigh experience, diversity counts for a lot.
  • Safety Record
Now there's a whole customer service basket you should look for too, but you only learn that after meeting with them.

Why isn't WorkSafe Coverage included in the basics?  Well it is but it matters more that they safe and the coverage clearance letter should be checked before the job starts.  This is a thing that depends a lot on the scale of the job and some trades - especially sub trades might not have WorkSafe because the general has agreed to pay for it.

"Extras" Criteria you should use to make your hiring decision

  • Check reviews.  The problem with this is that someone can have their friends and family all give them 5 star reviews.  Also, quite often the reviews won't be consolidated on one platform or they are repeated over several platforms.  Some reviewers are more harsh than others.
  • Check Relevant Experience.  There are major pitfalls with experience checks.  I'll list them in another article.  The point is, you need to make sure they are diverse, knowledge and experts.  Having done one kind of job doesn't mean they can't do another kind and vice versa.
  • Cost - but more importantly trust.  Don't get smart quoted.
  • Quality, 
  • Value,
  • Availability, 
  • Project Duration/Scheduling

Basically, make sure they have the basics, and check the big picture on the extras.  If they don't have the basics, that's a red flag!

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Note there are constantly new caulking products that mix recipes or overlap usages.  Their drying times, health hazard/risk, traits and usage significantly change by caulking type.

Silicone, Acrylic, Butyl, Polyurethane & 2-Part Epoxy are all kinds I'm familiar with.

This article is about Silicone & Acrylic caulking (see below).

To decide which you need to use, there is one critical piece of information you need to understand: usage.

Caulking purposes in residential:

  • Waterproofing, (Most Common)
  • Gap filling (Most Common)
  • Vapor Sealing
  • Soundproofing (not going to cover that in this article)
  • Fire Rating (not going to cover that in this article)


  • Are used primarily in "finishing" environments,
  • Are "waterproof" but not recommended for the primary waterproofing,
  • Are paintable (hence "finishing") but comes in a variety of colors,
  • Great at Gap Filling,
  • Easy to clean up with water,
  • Comes in a variety of colors.


  • Is typically NOT paint-able BUT you can buy expensive ones that are,
  • Typically Clear, Translucent or Transparent but you can get them is different colors as well,
  • Is sometimes great as an adhesive for things like back splashes, counter top anchoring, mirror anchoring, and other smooth surface to smooth surface "blob" gluing,
  • Highly flexible, 
  • Resistant to shrink/expansion,
  • Doesn't want to dry out or crack.
  • Smells powerful and is hard to clean up.
  • Used as the primary waterproofing caulking.
  • Resistant to mold.
  • Reacts with neoprene washers (turns yellowish).
  • Can get Fire Rated Silicone based caulking.

Here are some quick test questions to help you understand the differences.


1. Question:  What kind of caulking would I use around a tub surround?

Answer:  100% Silicone

2. Question:  What kind of caulking would I use with a window installation?

Answer:  Behind flanges for example, use silicone.  Behind any trim use either silicone or acrylic.  Visible sections around trim or flashings, use acrylic.

3.  Question:  What kind of caulking should I use around a sink?

Answer: Use Silicone.

4. Question:  What kind of caulking would I use on a metal roof?

Answer:  Drying times, UV(Ultra-Violet) ratings & specific usages make a difference here.  Typically Silicone is handy, especially with flashings however,  a Butyl caulkings is sometimes better.  For shingles, a Polyurethane caulking is more preferred.  However, there are cases where either can be used however, pay attention to UV rated products, drying times and what you're adhering to.  Epoxy caulkings are also an option however, they are way more toxic, cost more and are good for mortar/concrete solutions.  

A lot of the time you just need to know about Silicone and Acrylic because it's the most common for homeowners.  

You can read the backs of the tubes for the more specialized, usage specific types.

Don't use acoustical sealant (because it's black and water resistant) on a roof!  That's for sound & vapor barrier penetrations!

Please "like" this if you found it was helpful and leave a comment if you have any questions.





It really drives me crazy sometimes when I hear "professionals" treat quotes like estimates or vice-versa; so much so, I decided to write about it.

What is a QUOTE?

A quote is a "fixed" price contract.  This essentially means, you can write me a check for the amount of my quote before I start the job.  Once the job is completed, you could give me the check without having to re-write it.

If I give you a quote, I take ALL the risk if something goes wrong during the scope of work as stated in the quote.  Sometimes, there may be clauses to mitigate certain risks.  For instance, I might put things in the quote like "not liable for damage to sprinkler heads".  Quotes can be high risk for certain kinds of jobs.

So what's an ESTIMATE?

An estimate is a flexible price.  It's purely a guess at the costs a project entails and ultimately you could pay more or less than an estimate when the job is completed.  One major thing to note, there's absolutely nothing to fall back on to determine what's actually going to be charged.  Some might say "customer service" is the only thing that you as a client has as leverage.  Quite often estimates create conflict between contractors and homeowners who use the terms quotes and estimates interchangeably.

In Summary:

Complicated, unpredictable jobs should never use estimates or quotes for the contract. (There are other more appropriate contracts out there).

Jobs like a framing a deck or doing a foundation are jobs that can be quoted as there are specs/drawings that show all the necessary information.

Estimates should never be used for "the contract" but instead for determining a "budget" where your actual contract should be "time & materials" or a "mark up".





These are all very important, and whether you like it or not, you're paying for these things in some way. 

TIP #7 - Give your contractor ample notice and freedom of schedule.  

You catch more bees with honey so they say...
"Be Nice".

The more available the project is as filler, the more likelihood overtime will not need to be paid AND the more the schedule can be more easily filled up to keep crews busy(sometimes an added perk).  At the same time, you need to COMMIT to the job way ahead of time.  Jobs that come up in peek demand get quoted high if the schedule is too full.

TIP #6 - Don't offer or say you're going to do some of the work yourself.  

Contractors don't want to work with DIYers.  If a DIYer wants to even paint or do demo themselves, that means I need to pad MORE for delays in scheduling, excessive demo work.  I might have higher standards than you and I have to put my name on it.  How can I warranty your work?  Also, in some cases, I need to start dissecting things more thoroughly since some jobs have the profit divide up to sub-scopes and if you're doing part of the work, well now I need to know how much that in theory should take off.  This is a whole lot of work, especially if we are trying to make changes with square footage rates.

TIP #5 - Don't pick your contractors sub-trades for them. 

Quite often I'll have regretted not spending the extra time vetting a client's own "go-to" and in hindsight, a lesson learned is I should add minimal padding if they request to use someone I'm unfamiliar with for warranty, liability, & double/triple checks for QC.

TIP #4 - I've said it before and I'll say it again.  Get drawings.  

I do cheap, to scale drawings if not for the permit, for communication purposes and also as a record to sign off on so that we are in agreement on spec.  This is guaranteed to save you and your contractor money from better communication and organization.  This increases my margins without charging you extra.

TIP #3 - It's ok to change your mind.  

The thing is, some jobs it's expected and some it isn't.  Make sure your contract reflects the kind of job that is being done.  Bathrooms, Kitchens & Additions all are prone to mind changing and the contract should clearly and easily reflect that.  Don't get "Smart Quoted."

TIP #2 - If you've chosen to get your blueprints drawn up without consulting your contractor, make sure your contractor likes them.

There's sometimes cases where I've saved my client lots of money because we deviated from the plans to the way I know how to build better.  Not only that, sometimes, people are accustomed to the hard way or old way.

TIP #1 - Be nice to your contractor.  

It's way more likely your contractor will go above and beyond if you've treated them well.  There's been a lot of cases where I could have and should have charged as per our agreement but I gave them a deal!

BONUS: If your contractor is given you a price...don't do these

  • Use prices from other contractors as leverage saying "he'll do it for less"  - this annihilates #1 advantage.
  • Say right off the bat, you're getting other quotes. - This turns the opportunity into a "smart-quote" environment.  This is really bad for your budget!!
  • Ask for line item break downs.  This smells of "price-checker" free consulting.
Any of the above and you become hard to bargain with and ultimately I need to charge more for spending more non-billable time on paperwork and math than I should.  Or I think there's no money to be made here and I quote high for safety and move on.



OK.  This is important.  So the moisture is the problem but what's causing the moisture?

***Flowchart - Coming Soon***

Before I really get into the troubleshooting, you're going to need to know a few things.

We are trying to find a dew point.  It's the point at which the hot air meets the cold air with the humidity typically higher for some reason. (ie: bathroom showers, kettle boiling, fish tanks etc.)

Here's the process of troubleshooting:

STEP 1. Checking for Window Argon Seal

Check for condensation or frost in between the panes If there is condensation on the inside, then the argon fill seal is broken and your window might be covered under warranty.  To my experience the Argon seal breaking has a warranty of 2-5 years.

Keeping your bathroom fans' vents
clean goes a long way!

STEP 2. Check wall insulation/penetrations for air leakage via conduction through the wall or through a breach in the vapour barrier

If there isn't any, then check by feel(or use a surface heat thermometer $30) to see if the wall under the window is cold (properly insulated) look for areas near plugs for cold air in the winter, hot in the summer.  You might have a floor register that is mixing with outside air and creating that dew point OR it might not be causing enough air flow in your home(see #3).  Typically, if it's JUST the floor register and your walls are well insulated, the condensation in the wintertime is from the Argon seal breaking.

STEP 3. Checking air flow - lack thereof

If none of those cases are present then more than likely you have a humidity problem and poor air flow.  Also as mentioned, that can be caused by blinds, curtains and an unintentional "passive solar/heating effect." I suspect your humidity is too high given your airflow.  You may need a dehumidifier.  Check your bathroom fans too...Have some fish tanks?

STEP 4.  Checking temperature consistency in each room. (To figure out if it's one window vs all windows or one room vs all rooms)

Try opening all your vents for a while, enough that your furnace is working to heat each room consistently, grab a $30 surface temperature gun or digital thermostat and check to see if your rooms of a single story are all the same temperature, then check the room with the window.  (might as well point the surface detector at the wall and check a reading for #2 relative to other walls.)

If it's all windows or all rooms, you have a furnace/heating/air circulation problem. Call the HVAC guy.  If it's just one window or room and you're sure it's not #4, then it's #5 below.

STEP 5. Unlikely but poor window installation - specifically between the rough opening (R.O.) and the window.

In some cases, the perimeter of a window installation can be prone to being poorly insulated: either lack of acoustical sealant on the V.B., or no insulation between the window and the rough opening.  Pop the casings off and check, maybe spray some low expansion spray foam in any gaps.  Use silicone caulking around the perimeter if you can't spray foam.

STEP 6.  If you haven't solved your problem, I'd like to know! 

Email me your situation and I'd be happy to learn with you.

PLEASE, DON'T REMOVE SIDING - You don't need to unless you're getting damage from water and the above situation is dew point related - not water shedding related.



The Cost of Drawings Will Be...

Well It Depends of course! (But I can still give you an idea)

One question that always comes up is how much are drawings going to cost? And it doesn't end there!   Let me explain why such questions are hard to answer.

It will depend on a number of factors, and they are all huge.

  1. Are the renovations an addition or adding a story or simply moving interior non-load bearing walls?  Will roof changes be required?
  2. Designers charge typically by the hour and the amount of revisions you need will heavily impact the price. Are you picky? Decisive? Also, changing your mind once say during permit-submitting ready drawings are completed and going back to slight concept changes that need re-rendering might also heavily influence the price.  You might need more "details" or "cross sections".
  3. If you count an engineer's drawings for structural, you're going to be spending substantially more. Same goes if you get an architect to design you a shed for example if you get my point.
  4. You are also going to have to pay for numerous "details", "cross-sections" and more than likely a "site" plan as well.  Minimums will be required by your municipal district and extras by your contractor (If they're good they'll have a fine line threshold but again, it depends on #1 & #2 mainly).
That all being said:

To Answer the Question

Sometimes designers will provide a cost per sq. ft.

    On average, I'd say you are going to be paying somewhere between $1,000-5,000 + engineering.  I develop a budget and work with my clients to ensure that minimal revision costs are saved and I can help eliminate expensive concept changes by providing information on what's practical to meet your overall budget.  I also have a whole bag of tricks to help save on these costs.

    Best of luck!


    It's not enough that you can trust them(ie: your contractor)  which is why I think this article will save you thousands of dollars.  It's applicable to all combinations of renovations involving bathrooms, kitchens or multiple trades.  Any time you're selecting from materials or look to make changes "on the fly".

    Let's start with a given project...say a bathroom renovation - because they're among the 

    Take your time, work with your contractor on a budget and a plan.



    The first question you're going to ask yourself is:  

    On average, how much does a bathroom renovation cost?  

    You'd probably ask the same thing if it were a kitchen, garage, addition or house.

    It's next to impossible to answer.  I've done a lot of bathrooms and they're all different - but that's only part of the problem.

    "It's not like picking a car with features to select from, bathrooms are more like picking vehicle parts and seeing what kind of vehicle you can get."

    Make sure you have a budget
    AND plans.


    The problem is there are TOO MANY VARIABLES

     Contractors can't predict:

    1. What is in the walls 
    2. If "Smoke & Mirrors" by a previous owner/contractor was used to do terrible work
    3. If you are going to want to change your mind and when.
    4. What it is YOU want unless they spend a ton of time with you. 

    To mitigate this we use what's called "padding" on our quotes to cover contingency funds.  This is standard. 

    HOWEVER, with bathrooms and other multi-trade projects, this isn't ideal.  If you add all the padding up and it to your costs, then the price, or quote, might not be competitive compared to contractors who are using proper methods.  


    If you do think you are getting a good price, you are likely getting "Smart Quoted".  

    If you aren't getting "smart quoted" and you trust your contractor, then it's only a matter of time before the quoting will catch up with them.  Arguments, tension and unpleasantness will ultimately be associate with your reno.  Unless you're really lucky or they are really lucky.

    Why quoting is a terrible idea

    Bathrooms and other multi-trade projects are prone to problems and none of them you're going to be able to mitigate.

    • They use up contingency funds (unless you're lucky)
    • Multi-trade jobs are highly susceptible to trade cost fluctuations
    • They are prone to having warranty issues.
    • Price creeping happens with the selection of fixtures and materials.
    • Don't scale well.
    • Therefore, are extremely prone to going over-budget
    I would say you have a 90% chance of going over your budget! 

    OR not getting what you want. OR not getting your job finished and that's if you hire a contractor.  It will be even worse for YOU if they smart quoted you or if you decided to do the project management yourself.  

    Problematic Scenarios

    Part of the problem is if you want to change your mind on the fly(maybe you see a deal) on a counter top or floor (or whatever it may be).  This is when it will hit you and discover that you should have done more research.  You'll realize that things get messy fast.  And your contractor is going to put up a resistance to any changes that are expensive OR they will be thrilled that they charged you a change-order hourly rate - better hope it was low! (hint: it never is because change orders are also inefficient)

    Now, let's talk about project management.  
    There's 5 scenarios you will have to choose from.

    Scenario 1 
    General Contractor Provides You With a Quote

    We just went over it. You're going to be over budget or bad things are very likely to happen.

    Scenario 2
    Sit down, have a chat, and discuss your ideas.
    Check if you and them are a good fit.
    General Contractor Provides You With a Proper Contract

    You know how to price shop and compare apples to apples. (A different article)

    Scenario 3
    The Sub-Trade General Contracts
    And sometimes they'll share that burden with you - that's worse.

    You get the plumber or the HVAC guy or the electrician to project manage.  This is bad for you.
    It's bad for scheduling, it's bad for the warranties that might come up later, it's bad for quality control and most of all, it's bad for your budget.  It's all of THEM vs YOU.  Let me ask you this.  Does the electrician know or care about what counter tops you are going to chose?  Or how waterproof your bathroom floor needs to be?  Are they going to care how much another trade is going to cost? Probably not as long as they get paid first.  Construction phases overlapping and re-work are going to be prone.  This is very bad for you!  Even if you trust them, and they trust each other.  It only goes well until something goes wrong, once.

    Scenario 4
    You hire the carpenter

    This is your next best option.  It's not ideal, but the good news is: you're probably going to get your bathroom completed.  Budget, warranty and scheduling are all going to be iffy though.  A well rounded carpenter is the only trade that's going to be able to salvage a mess but depending on your contract it could cost you or them.

    Scenario 5
    You are the General Contractor

    Don't ever try and project manage a bathroom yourself unless:
     (and i stress that you shouldn't)

    1.  It's your bathroom.
    2.  You have deep pockets.
    3.  You have a lot of time
    4.  You don't care about warranty
    5.  You are well connected.  (this is dangerous because you might be falling into scenario 3)
    6.  You are a carpenter.
    7.  You aren't doing much for upgrades.
    8.  You have a bail-out plan.

    Follow this simple checklist of tips

    • If they give you a quote, that's a flag- you're being smart quoted or one/both parties are going to be unhappy.
    • If they are sub-trades other than MAYBE a Carpenter. that's a flag.
    • If they aren't doing a budget, that's a huge flag.
    • If they are cheap - might be a bad choice. (check if we have an article on finding the best prices)
    • Finally, if you DON'T have ONE CONTRACT for the whole job, you need to find someone else.
    Thanks for reading and I wish you luck!


    I've coined it the "Smart Quote".

    In its simplest terms: "a quote that is designed to fool you". 

    I've learned that some people call it "bid low, invoice high" which in their mind, they are "out-smarting" their competition at the cost of deceiving their customers intentionally or not.

    Here's how it works and how you can tell if you might be getting smart quoted.

    Let's say you are getting your bathroom renovated and you've gotten some quotes.  We'll say you have 3 quotes to select from.  (By the way, you shouldn't be getting quotes on bathrooms, I'll be writing another article on why)

    Scenario "A" is the lowest quote.  "B" is the middle & "C" is the highest quote.  Most people toss away the "C" quote and decide between "A" & "B".  We won't get into how to choose the best quote.  For the sake of the argument, we'll say "A" & "B" are the two you're going to seriously consider.

    Now we will use a job scope which is designed to make the point.

    • Replace the bathtub & shower unit
    • Replace a toilet.
    • Replace a vanity.
    Now in the world of residential construction, the paperwork is a big indicator on the vulnerability of homeowners.

    If the job scope items aren't specified, you're at higher risk of getting "smart quoted".

    Contractor "A" says $4,000 (and I'm just throwing numbers at this)
    Contractor "B" says $5,000.
    Contractor "C" says $6,000.

    Contractor "A" says to make changes, then the hourly rate factors in at $150/hr (again throwing numbers at this)

    Contractor "B" doesn't say anything about if you want to change your mind AND you think you know what you want.  They, however, throw something in called an allowance though. The allowance schedule shows a breakdown of each fixture and how much they will cost, but if you want to change the fixture and it's more or less then the actual amount you pay is adjusted accordingly.
    - "Some people call that clever, 
    some call it strategic bidding. 
    I think it's deceiving."

    You chose an option and here's what happens.

    The job has started.  The vanity has been purchased and installed and the tub/shower is on order.  A toilet is brought in and then the plumber says the drain is too close to the vanity or won't fit.  Now what.  We need to replace the vanity(but the contractor doesn't want to pay for a custom vanity OR move the drain.  If you decided to project manage yourself, you're in big trouble.

    If you chose contractor "B"... They knew the drain was going to need to be moved but didn't include it in their price.  Despite you not know their hourly rate, they say it's going to cost $1,000 to move the toilet at $100/hr for 10 hours.

    If you chose contractor "A"... well they predicted the drain was going to need to be moved, inflated their hourly rate to compensate for their lower price and didn't include it in the scope of work.  They told you their umbrella hourly rate and unless you want things to go sour right now, you need to pay: 10 hours at $150 = 1500 extra.  Some people call that clever, some strategic bidding, I think it's

    So updated new "out of pocket" amounts are:

    "A" $5,500
    "B" $6,000
    "C" $6,000

    Now that the floors have been jack-hammered, there's a small amount of flooring that needs to be replaced.

    Both "A" and "B" didn't reflect that in the job scope and you end up paying $1,000 more for the new bathroom floor.

    Updated "out of pocket" amounts:

    "A" $6,500
    "B" $7,500
    "C" $6,000

    Now you're going to love this, it's not over!  The biggest part and easiest to control is allowances. Windows are bad for this.

    The tub/shower unit shows up and guess what, it's so shallow you can barely get water on you after you fill it or it's uncomfortable, hard to clean, etc etc etc... You want to return it.

    Well, contractor "A" says again, to replace this is going to cost $150/hour (say 5hrs) to change the valve accordingly and you need to wait 3-6 mores weeks for the new one to arrive but nothing was said about the cost to upgrade it.  Your contractor refuses to pay for the upgrade. (+ $250)  But now there's tension and conflict and the job isn't even finished because trim, drywall and paint still needs to get done.

    Contractor "B" says, ok, $100/hr to replace the valve and the upgrade is reflected in your allowance so you'll have to pay more in this case as that was the deal.  It's not messy, just it costs more.

    New updated "out of pocket" amounts are:

    "A" $7,500
    "B" $8,000
    "C" $6,000
    The intention is not necessarily to deceive the homeowner, but instead, just to win the bid against cut-throat competition and tradespeople working out of their truck.

    At this point you realize you've been "smart-quoted".  Options "A" & "B" ARE going to get out of hand and option "C" might have been the right choice (in this case).

    Option "C" is the more attractive quote! 

    HOWEVER, this is still terrible for bathrooms and you're going to be disappointed!

    Learn why Contractor "D"(the option you never knew you had) is the right choice for bathrooms in another article.



    It's a huge industry.  No wonder these problems exist!

    Renovations & new construction is a huge part of everyone's lives.  I feel like 1 person out of every 5 people I know is doing some sort of work on their home while a staggering 9 out of 10 people is either doing something OR knows someone who is at this point in time.

    It's not surprising that with such demand in affordable housing there is this problematic and stressful problem homeowners face.  

    Homeowners put their soul into their house, it's where most people spend the majority of their time.  It's where they feel safe and take care of their families.  The risks with hiring a bad contractor hit sensitive nerves for the homeowner. 

    Have you heard about the stories below?

    You might have heard this horror story if not from social media or the news, perhaps from a friend or family member.  

    In a nutshell, some contractor ended up being caught on camera emptying his bladder into the kitchen sink.  Gross.

    Maybe these stories: 

    • The family goes away only to return home to see their belongings are gone.
    • How about the renovation that never ends? 
    • The budget blown right up.
    • The no show.
    • The mess. 
    The list goes on.
    There's 1001 ways a renovation can go wrong and probably half of them for another reason I won't cover today.

    You need a contractor that you can trust.

    Question: So how do you know you can trust them?

    Answer: Now there's exceptions to every rule however, you should have a really good chance of properly vetting someone by following the directions below.

    The first and obvious is vetting by seeing or hearing someone else vouch for them.  In most cases, that would only give you a good character reference though unless that reference knows smoke & mirrors from solid good construction practices.

    Sometimes organizations will vouch for a contractor, this is pretty good way to get a solid option however, sometimes price is another story.  Expect to pay a premium for the "auto-vetting" that took place.

    Another option is slow incremental steps.  Hire them for something smaller, then see how they do.  It's a little riskier at first, but you can learn a lot about someone very quickly.

    Here's the last way for vetting character.  You meet with them.  In person.  You ask about their family and look into their background as a person.  Ask about their education, their favorite things to do  and maybe where they like to dine.  Stay away from politics and religion though as that has no bearing whatsoever if they are a good fit towards getting your renovation completed.  Check their social media.  Does your dog like them?

    Checking for qualifications is pretty straight forward.

    Don't fall for the "I've been doing this 40 years".

    Beware the billion years of experience though.  I've hired two 40+ years of experience workers/carpenters and let me tell you -- opposite ends of the spectrum.
    You want a contractor that is diverse, knowledgeable, and has enough experience for you to know they can do the job well.  I would say 4-6 years as a carpenter is a good guideline and a few years as a contractor depending on the job but really, it just depends.  A good contractor will have a network of trades and reliable resources that provide aide in specialized scenarios.

    Check for certifications(use this tool), insurance & workers' compensation clearance.  Ask them why they will or won't pull a permit.  Not pulling a permit when they should is an easy red flag. Check with your "city - buildings department" online or call them to find out or check if another contractor disagrees. (Although I've been the odd one out on occasion, I was 100% certain a permit should be pulled and one wasn't)  Don't listen to what you want to hear and be objective.

    Another thing to consider is what trade they are in.  Let me tell you a few things about general contractors and sub-contractors.  Know the difference.

    Make sure you hire a general contractor with a red-seal carpentry background.  In the last 15-20 years, qualified but "non-certified" contractors have been phased out due to retirement.  Any general contractor in today's world should ideally have their red-seal carpentry ticket plus any project management degrees or diplomas etc. for bigger jobs, especially commercial.  Building Science is now a relevant field as well.

    The sub-trade saying they can project manage or "you can do that part" but they know the trades and can hook you up...that's a trap!!

    Here's why:

    Red-Seal Carpenters are prone to being very diverse.  

    They know a whole lot about: 
    • concrete(maybe 30% curriculum), 
    • framing(mabye 20% curriculum), 
    • finishing,
    • building envelops,
    • blueprints,
    • And, most importantly  They also know a bit(enough, if not a lot) about all of the sub trades.
    Those reasons are why carpenters make great general contractors in construction.

    It's not uncommon for trade after trade to come in and find the previous trade had cut wires out of the way, or plumbing drains/lines to make way for ducting.  Dry-walling over receptacles, not know where another trade puts their stuff is almost never a problem for a carpenter since we're the ones that are usually called to frame chases or but a bunch of back framing bulkhead, or backing etc...Every site needs a multi-purpose carpenter and it's natural for that person to be the General Contractor.

    Here's another MAJOR reason to pick a General Contractor over a Sub-Contractor that can hook you up:

    General Contractors(and sometimes Carpenters) care and KNOW about the budget. They will know if a crane is going to be needed on site.  They know fans, drains, switches and have a pretty good idea of what it entails to make changes.  While a decorator, or architect, or designer might be familiar with sub-trades, they may not know from a practical stand point of what it's actually going to cost or how long it will take to get a specific job scope done. Do you think the electrician or plumber is going to care about how much the counters cost?  Or how water proofed something is?

    The last few things are pretty easy flags to check for.  

    Basically, it's their paperwork.  Know that prices are different from contracts.  Contracts and prices get determined BEFORE the job starts.  Everything should be in writing however brief it may be.

    Bathrooms budgets are very vulnerable to being blown right up! 
    In summation, here are the indicators you can use as a checklist.

    1. Check References, Testimonials or Reviews. (This is for character)
    2. Don't hire sub-trades to pose as project managers. Don't do the project managing yourself, let me explain why in person or another article.
    3. Check for Red-Seal Certification, Worker's Compensation Clearance Letters, Homeowner's Protection Licencing for new builds.
    4. Ask if they are going to pull a permit.
    5. Ask if they are going to have designs drawn up.
    6. Look at their paperwork(bid, contract, invoice, budgets, schedules etc.. for organization & thoroughness)
    7. Finally, meet them.  Twice.
    Don't bother price checking until you have a roster of 3 contractors to chose from.  Price also won't be a factor at this stage however, I will post another article on how to determine if you are being what I call "Smart Quoted" or "Bid Low, Invoiced High".  A good contractor knows that a poor reputation will catch up with them and to place trust means to have good numbers. 

    Best of luck!

    Helping homeowners with their renovations


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